George Wood’s diary — The Cairngorms, 5th-18th June 1932
The following is a transcript of the diary of 22-year-old George Wood who, with some friends, undertook a two-week expedition in the Cairngorms in summer 1932. The diary entry was sent to me, with photos, by George’s son Douglas who contacted me after speaking with Robin Cambell of the SMC. Robin thought that I might be interested in viewing the photographs that accompanied George’s diary, as they contained many summer snow-patches. However, after reading the diary entries I asked Douglas if I could reproduce the whole thing, as I suspected many other outdoor enthusiasts would be interested in following the wonderfully detailed account of what they saw and did; who they spoke with and what they ate over the course of their two-week journey. It’s a treasure-trove of anecdotes that any lover of the Cairngorms — and uplands in general — will I’m sure enjoy.
The preamble text below is from Douglas.
As a young man George Wood (1909–1995) would spend his two-week summer holiday from work exploring the Highlands with a group of friends. He kept diaries of the adventures and assembled an album of photographs.
These trips occurred in the early years of the 1930s. His companions were mostly work colleagues from the Bank of Scotland head office on The Mound in Edinburgh, but others would sometimes join them. As opportunities to explore the hills were limited considerably by a six-day working week, the expedition during the two-week summer holiday was a highlight of the year.
After that period George’s life moved on and the diaries and photographs were largely forgotten about until relatively recently.
The Cairngorms, 5th to 18th June 1932
(Ian M, Ian C, George, Alan L, Charlie R, George W)
Sunday 5th June
Train leaves Princes St. Station* punctually at 7.40am. Weigh pack before start and shocked to find it 2st 10lb. Ian’s however is 2lbs heavier which is a little comforting! After changing at Perth reach Forfar 10.15am. Then get 10.30am bus to Kirriemuir. Arriving at Kirriemuir at 11o’clock we learn there is a bus to Clova at 1.30pm so decide to leave packs at garage and do a little sightseeing. Visit Sir James Barrie’s birthplace, and a Mrs Thomson at same very kindly explains curios and shows us many interesting things. Introduced to daughters of house who are a little shy (like ourselves) to begin with and a few snaps taken of house etc. One of the daughters knows Janice Bruce so remembrances to be given on return. Visit ‘Window in Thrums’ and the Den which recalls ‘Tommy and Grizel’. Our last visit is to the Pavilion gifted by Sir James and here we visit the Camera Obscura. This is a periscope arrangement that gives a wonderful panorama view of all the surrounding countryside. The caretaker’s wife takes us round in the absence of her husband who was a V.C. We feel it was worth a visit to Kirriemuir just to see this instrument alone.
And now for the open road; we come back to the road and strike out for Cortachy.
The bus conveniently comes about a mile from Cortachy and we are conveyed up Glen Clova by South Esk past Airlie Monument through beautiful wooded countryside. Two miles from Clova, Ian and I meet up with the others and all the packs are taken on board. From Clova we continue on foot to Braedownie. The slopes are now noticeably steeper as we enter Glen Doll. Arriving at Braedownie we enquire re camping sites and strike on a beautiful spot a mile or so up glen. We are 10yds up from the banks of the White Water with Dreish and Mayar on the left and Craig Mellon on the right. Fine fir clumps, and a cloudless sky complete the picture.
At 5 o’clock stoves are going full steam ahead and soon after we dine.
Menu:
- White Water cocktail
- Sausages and toasted bread
- Rice and prunes Chocolate, cocoa, fruit, etc.
This makes a little hole in our supplies. Afterwards Ian and I volunteer to wash and clean up and offer gladly received. After this general talk, and prepare to retire at 10.30.
The weather today has been excellent, birds very numerous — pheasant, cuckoo, robins, plovers, etc, etc seen and heard. Lovely little flowers, violas yellow and purple, wood sorrel, broom in full bloom giving colour to scene.
I find a pair of antlers but can’t afford additional weight. And so to bed.
On a call from Alan and George I join them and we go for a twilight stroll. At 1,000 ft up we come upon 20 head of deer. However they keep us at 200 yds distance. Return and trying to sleep by 11pm. Win toss for choice of sides for sleeping.
Monday 6th June
After good night’s rest (4 hours sound sleep) rise first at 6am leaving Big Ian asleep. Beautiful sunrise lights up glen so visit the others. Alan and George and I set out to try and get a snap of deer. We get within 100yds of five, but we are spotted and all’s up. Climb to a ridge about 200ft up and return at fast pace for breakfast. The others all still in bed so get them up. George and I fry bacon and eggs for the company.
After a hearty tuck-in we tidy up and then have bathe in a pool — great stuff! After much ado about nothing leave in scorching sun at 11.30am. Climb easily to begin with and halt after an hour’s going. We push on again but find Jock’s Road very heavy going. The pace drops considerably to about 2 mph. Track tough with loose boulders. Halt at 3,000ft for lunch at 1.45pm. This is alfresco from all the packs; as a result we feel like stuffed fowls afterwards. Leave again at 2.45pm but soon after there is a difference of opinion about our line. After maps, compasses and aneroids have been consulted we continue. Blazing sun causes a halt at 4pm. Off once more, but stop whilst Ians doctor each other with vaseline on tender spots!! Coming down from Tolmount Ian Mac and I have exciting experience on rocky part. Eventually get down to level of Loch Callater but poor Ian’s heels are giving trouble. Proceed round to north end of the loch and pitch the tents on grass as level as a billiard table.
The view from Tolmount is striking, snow in parts and straight ahead our Cairngorms looking splendid but very white. Grouse and deer very numerous today. I prepare menu for tonight:
- Scotch broth
- Bully beef, beans and tomato sauce
- Ryvita Flaked rice and raisins,
- prunes
- Coffee.
After clean up paddle in loch for a little. A few blisters are reported but my feet are without a scratch. Looking forward to a good sleep — we shall see.
Tuesday 7th June
Have a fine night’s rest. Wake at 7.15am and up and doing by 7.45.
After breakfast we laze about and leave Loch Callater at about 12. Going down by Clunie Water the path is very stony as Alan and I leading drop pace a little. At 1 o’clock Alan and I decide to stop for a dip and the others, with exception of George, proceed on to Braemar.
We enjoy a dip in Clunie Water and the three of us have a great lunch from the provisions left with us.
The spirit of the troops is excellent. We do the remaining 3 miles at a cracking pace. Meet others at Braemar and describe our lunch. Leave order with Grocer and have tea here. See the house R.L.S. wrote “Treasure Island” in. Have a sweep draw for 6 lots of the provisions taken in but I am unlucky. Leave Braemar at 4.45pm and take a high track above the main road by the Dee. Pass Mar Lodge. Pass through Inverey and camp about 1½ miles out.
The Georges prepare meal and afterwards this is voted the best yet:
- Fried steak
- Creamola and pineapple or pears
- Cocoa
Afterwards we do some washing and build large campfire to dry. Retire to bed at about midnight.
Wednesday 8th June
Up and doing by 8am, and deer look at us from just 10yds distance. Enjoy breakfast of sausages and egg, etc, etc and in drawing up supplies make discovery that our supply of condensed milk is one small tin for 3 days. Ian and I go back to Inverey but are unlucky.
At 1 o’clock leave and very soon we are at Linn of Dee. The going from there is by stone path and rather hard in the brilliant sun. Arrive at Derry Lodge at 2pm, and enjoy 3 quarts of milk at lunch time at Luibeg. Mr Grant here knows Donald Mackay [work colleague and mountaineer] very well and has a tame crow. After this break we start for the mountain track to Corrour Bothy. Going heavy but pace moderate. We are in the hills now, no trees growing at all. Proceed by Lui Water and pass Corrour Bothy. Pitch camp on other side of Derry Burn. I take off boots and stockings before crossing to keep them dry and try to throw them across before me. Both fall short and are carried downstream, but Ian C recovers them amid laughter.
I make Oxtail soup, and dinner goes well with the above and Tomato soup, bacon and eggs, fruit salad and cocoa, etc.
We invite the others to visit us and all of us play pontoon with our supply of matches.
Today like the others has been good and dry. Our position is ideal. Ben Macdhui is on our right, with a lot of snow, whilst the Devil’s Point, Cairn Toul and Braeriach loom sharply above us.
Thursday 9th June
Up in the morning early and after breakfast prepare lunch to take with us for the climbing. Unfortunately Ian Mac’s heels are very bad and he decides to stay behind.
We ascend the Tailor’s Burn and then left up the shoulder of Ben Macdhui reaching the summit at 11.45am in glorious weather.
A long argument ensues here for and against visiting the Shelter Stone and Loch A’an, and this is carried eventually. We drop down very suddenly into a deep corrie and arrive at the Shelter Stone at 2. Have lunch, then down to Loch A’an where we have to long jump a stream of about 10ft with mixed fortunes. We climb Cairngorm from the end of L. A’an and have exciting climb up steep slope. Top of Cairngorm reached at 4.15pm. From C.G. we take SW course along ridge and are going through snow for about 2 miles without a break. Many ptarmigan seen and two eagles. Descend to Lairig pass at Pools of Dee. Ian and I bathe at 6pm in icy water and enjoy it! Back to camp and a bumper meal:
- Porridge
- Bully beef and beans
- Fruit salad and creamola
- Sardines and biscuits Cocoa or Oxo.
The creamola made by me is enjoyed even although made by 4 parts water to 1 condensed milk. Tired but happy and so to bed after bathing feet and washing up etc 10pm.
Friday 10th June
Up early in an endeavour to make good time for a long day ahead of us over the Lairig. Leave about 10.30am. Ian Mac in agony, his shoes clinging to open heels. Halt of a half-hour while Big Ian acts surgeon with my first aid. I luckily am wearing boots and he is able to wear my shoes which give him a little assistance.
Going over Lairig not too bad but care required for ankles. Ian Mac leads so that we can take his pace and this seems to spur him on for we make fine pace into Rothiemurchus Forest. All of our supplies were consumed at breakfast so by 3pm we are becoming peckish. Charlie produces a slab of chocolate and we all fall on his neck. The forest is very pretty and the hills behind us look perfect. At 4pm we consult compass for a multitude of tracks is very confusing. At 4.30pm realise or imagine we are wrong and cross country for half hour before spotting a cottage. This is half a mile from Coylum where we obtain two glasses of milk and a roll. (The best ever after 8 hours fast.)
We learn no camping allowed on R. Estate but as keeper is off on our side of the forest we are told to chance it although no mention to be made of visit to cottage. We retrace steps for 2 miles and find an excellent site at a bend of the River Luineag in a hollow with trees all around. After pitching the Tinker we leave Ian Mac here and proceed to Coylum for supplies with three empty Bergens. Leave bumper order with good lady and find ppc addressed to us en masse from Miss J Baxter who is at Arisaig.
The five of us then hove in to Aviemore for Post Office enquiries. Here parcels are awaiting us all and I get a surprise. Post off ppcs**, etc. Return and pick up supplies at Coylum and prepare meal. This is served at 9.30pm — 12½ hours after last breakfast. What a spread:
- Oranges, sweets
- Fried steak and onions Fried eggs
- Creamola
- Raspberry jam Tinned pears
- Biscuits and cheese Cocoa
- and chocolate cake with full ceremony.
By 10.30pm at finish of meal we are helpless and can only lie and groan! Charlie goes off to walk it down but the remaining five squeeze together in tent and tell funny stories till we are at bursting point. Read letters from home etc.
The night is beautiful, wonderful sky effect and N. S. E. and W. all lit up in different hues. This is life. At 12.30am we (Ian C, Alan, Geo, and I) go for a stroll and walk up to Loch Morlich 3 miles away returning to camp almost sleep walking at 1.45am. Retire to bed in great form 2.15am.
It is still quite light and very peaceful with the river 6ft from our tent door.
Saturday 11th June
Up and bathing with Ian C before others at 7.30am, fresh as paint. Great morning with prospect of heat. George and I cook breakfast. Owing to our sojourn in Rothiemurchus Forest we are half a day behind timetable so today press on to second bothy at Loch Einich. Delay of half hour owing to my nose bleeding and refusing to stop.
The going is very pretty keeping a steady pace on the fairly good path. Trees and gorse lovely. A young deer looks at us quite unconcerned. Ian still wearing my shoes. Halt at 2.30pm at first bothy and have lunch. Second bothy reached by 4 o’clock. Pitch tents 100yds up from the bothy. Our site is very exposed so Ian and I go to the far end of the loch to prospect. The going is very bad so return by 6pm and decide to stay put. On this additional stretch we are lucky in seeing two studies of nature. On crossing from stones to moss startle mother grouse with four chicks. She pretends she is crippled and flops about 10yds from us to entice us away from the young. The cock grouse suddenly appears and swoops around us. Immediately after, on coming into corrie startle about 50 head of deer at least who immediately bound up the slopes of Corrie Toul. Return to camp and have very fine dinner served up to me, which is a pleasant change. Unfortunately it is our turn to wash up.
Glen Einich is very wild. The precipitous slopes of Carn Ban and Sgoran Dubh come right down to the loch side whilst towering above us are the slopes of Braeriach and Cairn Toul. We all go for a turn before retiring early, hoping for a good day on the morrow.
Sunday 12th June
Rush to slacken guys at 7.30am as rain patters outside. Rise at 9 and find mist enveloping all the hills. No climbing today.
Ian and I give others breakfast in bed, and although fair mist makes climbing impossible. Clean up packs generally and hope for the best. Two Grantown fellows call and pass time talking. They hope to climb Braeriach but conditions not good. After lunch decide to wait till tomorrow and this means more food necessary. We draw lots for the two who have to go back to Coylum 14 miles, and Ian C and Charlie are the unlucky ones. After tea go for small turn. Dry and clear in NE but mist heavy on account of no wind. Shave for first time, a process that takes about half an hour.
Write ppcs etc. On arrival of others help to make supper of
- Mealy pudding and herring
- Beans
- Creamola and pears Cocoa
- Biscuits and cheese Ginger cake.
Alan, George, Ian C and I go for a turn in the evening and future plans are discussed. Alan and George all for pushing on to Kingussie tomorrow if mist still covering peaks. Ian C determined to stay till clear — time no object. This means schedule to be broken. Whys and wherefors discussed with no solution arrived at.
I am keen to do tops but we may be held up indefinitely without success. Retire undecided but praying for clear day on the morrow.
Monday 13th June
Ian and I wake up and gingerly look out of tent at weather. Visibility good but mists on top and gale raging. Up we get very keen and decide to make our decision. After breakfast Alan refuses to climb if gale does not fall. As a result at 11am I have made sandwiches for Ian, Charlie and self for we are set on going whilst Ian Mac, who is now feeling strain of open heels, George and Alan strike camp and prepare to go on to Kingussie.
Ian Mac and I half provisions counting prunes and apricots carefully! Everybody pleased and amicable settlement arrived at. We propose to rejoin others at Kingussie by Tuesday night.
Commence climb at 11.15 prepared with first aid, gloves, etc etc for the worst. At 2000ft sun brilliant though wind strong. Keep to shoulder of Braeriach and up corrie for Devil’s Point. At 2500ft — 2800ft mist encountered and compass bearings taken. Reach plateau but mist bad and I lead down shoulder for Glen Geusachan. Compass consulted frequently. Eventually at 3pm reach top of Devil’s Point in patchy mist — 3 cheers.
At 3.30pm leave and proceed on ridge and make for Cairn Toul. Come into a brilliant patch of sunshine at 4000ft and we are back in tropical heat. Marvellous effects with mist over snow on cornices. Precipices sheer on right hand so we watch ourselves. Reach summit of C. Toul at 5pm in brilliant sun. Write and leave ppc. Day is now a scorcher and raiment shed. Down ridge and up Angel’s Peak 4095ft. Our views are most awe inspiring and magnificent. Mists in cotton wool formation are drifting about, hiding the tops of Braeriach one minute and dead clear the next. We are now on the longest plateau in the UK above 4000ft and reach top of Braeriach by 9pm. This plateau extends for about 4 miles and on right side cornices and precipitous snow beds are seen. Really marvellous, the sun is brilliant, not a breath of wind. See Lochan Uaine, Wells of Dee but waterfall hidden by snow.
We drop down face of Braeriach carefully and reach camp safe and sound at 10pm. Something attempted, something done, has earned us a night’s repose.
The going today has been mostly boulder work and had to be taken at easy pace. We are all very happy. Ptarmigan nest and eggs and young grouse seen and handled.
Ration of food since 8.30am
- 2 slices of bread and cheese 1 orange
- 3 oz chocolate
- 2 biscuits
- 1 slice of cake and snow ad lib.
Meal at 11pm
- Lentil soup
- Bacon and fried bully beef Fried bread
- Creamola
- Stewed raisins, apricots and prunes Cocoa, coffee
- Biscuits and cheese
A little walk necessary after this and afterwards we toss for places in remaining tent. Ian C. lands for middle so we retire in great form sometime on Tuesday in the early hours.
Tuesday 14th June
We all three go for swim in Loch Einich before breakfast. Sun brilliant. Strike camp and proceed round L. Einich on west side and thence up steep track to get out of the glen. Going very tiring with packs in sun, but after struggle reach shoulder of Carn Ban 3445ft. Come down track by Allt Fhearnagan into Glen Feshie by 2.30pm. Cross Feshie and enquire at School where we may obtain milk. School consists of teacher and about six kids ages 5–14. Have meal at side of Feshie and afterwards leave Feshie and on to secondary road for Kingussie.
Stop at cottage before reaching Tromie Bridge and old boy speaking Gaelic tells us where to get milk. He and old lady speak strangely in a slow Scotch tongue. Get milk (indoors for first time since leaving) and biscuits and cake and with merry heart push on to Gordon Hall. Reach GH about 6.15pm and decide to have light supper. Met by others and leave them while we go forward to Kingussie for mail and supplies. Receive at Post Office 1 wire, 1 paper, 1 parcel, 3 ppcs*, 2 letters. After getting supplies we retire to café and quench our thirst with 4 iced drinks each. Now slightly cooler! Back to Gordon Hall and have light supper of fruit, milk and Mother’s parcel contents.
Wednesday 15th June
Up early in the morning. Ian and I have spray under waterfall. We all go off to catch the 10 o’clock train for south. George goes off home as his leave is up and Ian Mac, who has done splendidly with bad heels goes off to Pitlochry to join his folks who are staying there. Ian, Charlie and I are off to Blair Atholl to climb Ben-y-Gloe whilst Alan prefers to remain behind and walk south by the Minigaig pass and hopes to meet us at Pitlochry on Saturday.
The day is a scorcher and we decide it will be heavy going up B-y-G. We therefore get in supplies at Blair Atholl and decide to visit the Tummel Valley and do our climb tomorrow.
At 12 noon we set out up left bank of Garry and after about 3 miles strike west over hill track. We eventually come to Loch Bhac and after a glorious swim have sunbathe. A quarter hour’s walk brings us to farm so here with milk enjoy lunch. Soon on main Rannoch road and 2 miles on cross over footbridge to south side of Loch Tummel. The bird life here is very wonderful. A pheasant with 5 chicks tries to lead us off her trail. Many water fowl, snipe, plovers etc etc. Beautiful big globe flowers grow wild in profusion. I gather many little flowers as specimens. Going down Loch Tummel beautiful, weather scorching. Poetry from Ian and Charlie in great abundance. We sing airs which gets us into good step. Come thro’ pass of Tummel and cross at peculiar suspension bridge at Bonskeid House. At Falls of Tummel we see salmon trying to leap without success. From the falls we cut out Pitlochry and come through Pass of Killiecrankie which is beautiful with setting sun. See Soldier’s Leap etc.
As it now 8.30pm decide to have tea at Killiecrankie, which is most enjoyable. Tea for the second time since starting. At 9pm we get train to Blair and by 9.15pm we have our packs and are proceeding up Glen Tilt looking where to lay our heads. At Fenderbridge fine old man in kilt (who we learn later is retired stalker of Duke of Atholl) advises us where to go and we are allowed up private road of the Duke’s which saves one mile. At 11pm come to Croftmore shepherd’s cottage and decide to pitch tent.
By 11.30pm in lovely moon the 3 of us pop gladly into bed with me in the middle. The spot we have chosen is a topper — a lovely big pool of the Tilt for bathing sheltered from the road and eggs and milk obtainable from the shepherd.
Thursday 16th June
Lovely sleep and Ian and I are bathing by 7am. Great stuff. Charlie makes some of breakfast (nuff sed!).
After breakfast is down I again have dook. At 12 with sandwiches set out for Ben-y-Gloe. Proceed up path of glen for about 7–8 miles in great heat. At 2.30pm we have another swim and lie in sun till 4pm. Shortly after consume lunch.
We then go up Allt Fheannach and decide to go up stream bank instead of climbing ridge. We have exciting hour in deep cut gorge. Scrambling from stones and scaling falls. I am wearing shoes as boots now sent home so find it safer to walk up the stream! Eventually after much trial and tribulation reach summit. All of us in various stages of disrobement 6.30pm. Deer and hare very common.
Carn nan Gabhar 3671ft. After chocolate climb Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain 3505ft, the other peak of Ben-y-Gloe. I then lead down steep slopes to plateau striking SW for 6 miles. At 9.30pm appear about exactly above starting camp. As we get lower we see Alan’s tent and he meets us having come over the Minigaig Pass in very good time. We have fine meal of
- Cauliflower soup
- Salmon
- Creamola and pears with cocoa and biscuits.
Have long crack with Alan and decide to have a day of rest tomorrow.
Friday 17th June
Up as fresh as a daisy and bathing before Ian cooks breakfast. We draw lots to see who has to go back to Blair for supplies and Charlie is unlucky. I however decide to join Alan in his walk and the pair of us set off at 11am for Struan and Bruar Falls. After refreshment at Blair we walk on hard road in blazing sun. Visit beautiful falls and have lovely little lunch at middle falls. Photos taken. Return by same route after easy day of 18 miles to camp. Ian has been sunbathing all day and in great form. Alan and I have dip. Afterwards Ian gives us meal which he does entirely himself, viz
- Cream of tomato
- Bacon and sausages
- Creamola with pears and peaches and cream.
Great stuff. We all go for a last walk. Charlie and Alan sleep together in Tinker, so Ian and I back to normal. Fall off to sleep at 11pm while Ian reads The Grand by candlelight.
Saturday 18th June
So this is the end. Rise at 6.30am and swim right away. I make breakfast thereafter Porridge and milk
Bacon, sausages and egg Cocoa and milk in abundance.
Clean up for last time and strike camp for last time. Obtain 2doz eggs from shepherd to take home and roll them in sleeping bag, Gilwells hoping for the best. Alan goes home with 11am train but Ian, Charlie and I get out at Pitlochry. Here Ian and I have shave etc — what a treat. Meet Mr Macdonald in street and invited to tea after our climb of Ben-y-Vrackie.
Leave Moulin for Ben at 1.30pm. Reach top at 3pm. Very easy path all the way but I lead boulder climb up steep face by variation. Descend at great pace meeting Ian Mac’s brother on way up. Descend on Macdonalds at 4.50pm. Afterwards have fine tea, Ian looking very well although feet not yet healed. Leave at 6pm and do shopping before getting train. The Macs see us off, Ian returning on Sunday night. Change at Perth and just before train starts Ian and Charlie have to get out as their ticket is for Waverley whilst mine is for Princes St. The boys again break up and I come home meself! Have amusing journey from Stirling to Grahamston with semi-tight labourer fisher and from there with old lady of 60 who tells me of her hikes. Arrive at Princes St station 10pm and met by Mother.
Feeling OK, am OK, and sorry it is all over.
[end]
* Princes Street Station. This station closed in 1965. It was the Edinburgh terminus for Caledonian Railways, situated at the West End of Princes Street on the site of what is now the Waldorf Astoria/ Caledonian Hotel. Edinburgh’s Western Approach Road was built along the track bed in the early 1970s. A history of it can be found here.
** ppcs — Picture postcards
